I gave up with the small coolant bleed on the top of the radiator. The Oldsmobile Intrigue was such a problem I purchased a vaccum coolant fill tool from Amazon. While I haven't had the Cruze coolant system open, I have had a lot of air bleeding problems with GM's early models with only the coolant bottle on the firewall. It could be air, around the thermostat or thermostat resistor, but I kind doubt it. There is a bleeder on the radiator near the top on the passenger side, if I recall from reading correctly.
If the old thermostat still had it's inner guts, you know you got everything, which I believe you did, since you have cold temps. In his case the temperatures were always high, as he had a restriction of flow. I think he may have "blown the thermostat" to pieces, and pieces mechanically got stuck in the water pump. There was one person on the forum, the member that had the salvaged title and wrote the water pump How To. The car reaches 225-227F on the high side, thermostat opens and in this case the engine cools all the way down to 205-207F. What's interesting is when you shut the heater off. If I crank up the heat really fast I can see the car commanding high engine tempertures to compensate for the heater.
I have the coolant display on my 2012 as well. With this point being the highest in the engine I'd assume air would bleed fairly well in this setup. Although many have said the flow from the small black line attached to the coolant reservoir is a fairly high flow. Keep your eye on the coolant level, as you may have a few air pockets in the system. The control system of the car is going to gradually reduce power to this auxiliary heater causing temperature to rise. So much so maybe the old thermostat mechanically failed. Since the computer sensed high temperature, it commanded this resistor to produce a lot of heat, to keep the old thermostat open. The wire on the thermostat is actually a heat resistor, which is commanded on to heat the coolant locally near the traditional wax pellet thermostat keeping it open. What is going on here? As I understood it, the thermostat is electronically controlled, so why did my "normal" coolant temperature change? It used to be part number 55579010, and now it is 55593034. I researched the thermostat part numbers, and as far as I can tell, the part number has changed. Normal operating temperature used to be in the 210 to 220 degree range. If I really push it, I can get it as high as 207. Coolant level is still fine, but my normal "high" coolant temperature is now 195 to 200 degrees. Today, I monitored the coolant temp all day, driving about 200 miles for work, and noticed something different. I bought a new thermostat and replaced it over the weekend. Whether this was by accident, or by design to protect the engine, I don't know. What I think happened is the thermostat got stuck closed, blew off a bunch of coolant out of the coolant reservoir, and then somehow the thermostat got stuck open. Driving temperature was now running low, in the 150 degree range and it wouldn't go any higher. I kept monitoring the temperature display, as I have the digital readout, my Cruze being a 2012. The gauge went back down so I started driving again. I added coolant, as then started up the Cruze, and checked the temperature. I had just checked the coolant level the day before and it was fine, but turned the heat and fan on high and pulled over as quick as I could and checked the level. With a flashlight, you may be able to see through the translucent plastic on the bottom of the tank to eyeball the level, without removing the cap at all.Late last week on the way home I suddenly got the message "AC off due to high engine temp" message, and the temp gauge starting spiking. The coolant is the black plastic tank on the passenger side of the car - you need to take the cap off to properly check the level, which means it's best done when the car is cold, or be very careful to follow the directions - you have to relieve the pressure in the system by turning the cap partway before taking it off. Otherwise, keep your eyes open for leaks - but don't confuse drips from the AC condenser with leaking fluids - a lot of people get alarmed by the drips under the car that are just water from the climate system.Īs I reread your post, however, I started to wonder if you're actually looking at the coolant reservoir - the fluid isn't blue - sure you're not looking at the windshield washer fluid? You can stop by your dealer if you're concerned, though the eyeball look at the coolant level seems to indicate no problem. I'm guessing the original alert was a false alarm. Your coolant temp is right on - average should be 85-90C.
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